Dome light turns on and off intermittently when driving. Often occurs when driving over rough road or in turn. Will turn off if (any) door is opened and closed or if the key is "jiggled".
Ok where can I start besides that I've come to hate my truck I have spent thousands of dollars fixing it constantly first off light in the car go on and off while driving whenever you hit a bump than I get random little leaks all the time and had my transmission worked on a year ago because it was messed up and here it goes again I don't know what the hell is wrong with it but sometimes I swear I just wanna throw the damn car off a bridge every other day there's another problem not my ac has stopped working I was drinking home from the gym yesterday morning at a red light he car shut off locked my steering wheel locked my doors locked my brake started beeping on my dash wouldn't let me do anything that's dangerous it was a major road with the light just turning green I'm stuck can't even put it in neutral and roll it out of the intersection I turned it off and turned it off drove it home woke up next morning found something leaking drove to work not its having problems shifting I'm so done with this truck.
I was driving on a residential street approximately two minutes from my home to run an errand. I was using the hands-free device on my phone as per texas law. There is one way each way with a yellow double line divider and many people park on the side to check mail walk dogs etc. So I tend to drive so that I won't hit those individuals. The road is curvy and I noticed that I was starting to veer off into the grass and I tried to steer back left and press my brakes at which time I realized that my brakes were not working and I could not get back on the road. I then ran over a fire hydrant which did not decelerate my car nor did it deploy my airbag; continuing to depress the brakes I am then hit a large light post which continued to not decelerate the car and not cause any airbag to deploy, and I still could not turn my wheel to the left (or to the to the roadway); there was a large delivery truck waiting to get into the gated community on the right-hand side and I ran into that vehicle stopping my car and totaling it where are the complete front end of my car was completely destroyed (pushed in) yet my airbags did not deploy. I was going to posted speed of 35 mph as I always do. My car had recently been inspected as required by the state because it is out for renewal in August 2017. I bought the car less than three years ago as a Ford certified used car with a 10 year 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty on it. It had less than 67,000 miles on it at the time of the incident. If the truck had not been there to stop my car, there is no other obstruction other then a major highway and I probably would not have survived.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Explorer. The contact stated that while driving approximately 20 mph and attempting to stop the brake pedal extended to the floor causing the driver to lose control of the vehicle and crash into a guard rail. During the crash no injuries were reported. A police report was taken at the scene and the vehicle was towed away. The cause of the failure was not determined. The local dealer and manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 92,600.
The contact owns a 2011 Ford Explorer. The contact stated that the vehicle was recently repaired under an unknown steering recall. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lost power steering functionality. The steering assist, traction control, and an unknown warning light were illuminated during the failure. The contact stated that the vehicle would regain power steering functionality a day or two after the failure. The failure had recurred three times within the month. The contact had contacted the dealer who diagnosed that the power steering rack needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The manufacturer confirmed that the vehicle was out of warranty and referred the contact to NHTSA for assistance. The approximate failure mileage was 142,000.
The contact owns a 2011 Ford Explorer. The contact stated that the illumination of the headlights was extremely dim. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where they advised the contact that they would adjust the lights. The vehicle was repaired for the adjustment of the headlights. The same failure recurred soon after the adjustment. The manufacturer was contacted and they offered no assistance. The failure mileage was 5. The VIN was unavailable.
The car always feels like is about to jump off the road or the lane im in whenever I drive over any rough road or pot holes. %ģ.
I have a 2001 Ford sport trac 2 wheel drive. When the truck had just passed the warranty period the brakes had to be replaced. The right front was down to bare metal. The rotor was replaced. Twice since then the brakes have been replaced with the exact same ploblem and now need to be replaced again. Ford parts were used and parts were professionally installed. I have spoked with 11 other people who have the same truck with the same problem. Also the turn signal and brake lights do not work if the tilt steering is tilted down. My truck has less than 92000 miles, and quiiet frankly I am very disappointed. I have owned Fords for the past 25 years and until this one I would not have owned anything else. Now it's time to get a new truck and I am not at all set on a Ford.
Multiswitch in 2000 Ford Explorer failed and gave off smoke, afraid of fire.
tl*the contact owns a 2008 ford explorer. while driving with the high beams activated, the lights illuminated at an angle. the contact stated that there is no setting on the vehicle to adjust the lights horizontally. the dealer and manufacturer stated that nothing could be done other than adjust the vertical setting, which is not the cause of the failure. the vin was invalid and the engine size was unknown. the failure mileage was 93 and current mileage was 1,100.